Prologue

I sit now the fifth day in Namche Bazar, the fourth in the Stupa Cafe, and I am sure: If I had known what I know now about hiking at this altitude, I would never have agreed to this tour, not exactly this one. Apart from the fact to start such a tour directly after three days awake was already very badly organized, it went, above all, probably too fast up high. But maybe it’s just the cry I had to hear from my body for once, because I more or less ignored the whispers during 700 days of running and now get the week of rest I seem to desperately need after two very active years. Sometimes you don’t get what you want, but what you need. But regardless of what I have suffered, I have also had just as nice a time, experienced a new country with great people and had time to learn more about myself …

Diary

28.10.2022 | Wilsdruff – Frankfurt | “Let’s go!”

3 p.m. sharp. Uwe picks me up and off we go by car to Frankfurt. Uwe is driving. After all, it is his fault anyway that I am on this trip.

More than 2 years ago I saw a video about Lhotse and something in me screamed: “You have to see it!”. Of course, I thought it was just some crazy dream until about a year later, Uwe said, “Let’s go!”

He had done such “crazy” hiking tours before, thought I would be able to do it, and gave me the honour of being there myself to actually fulfil my dream of seeing Lhotse.

Wait a minute, Lhotse? Who or what is that? Lhotse is with 8515 m.a.s.l. the fourth-highest mountain of the world. Some of you will have seen it on a picture, but you don’t know it, because everyone always has eyes for Mount Everest. However, because I have always been different from the others, I want to see and admire Lhotse.

Anyway, we have been sitting in the car for three hours now, including a traffic jam in Bad Hersfeld, and I’m still bored. One more hour. With a lot of stupid chatting, it still goes quite well.

About four hours later, we arrive at Simone and Andreas. Both are friends of Uwe. He has known Simone since his student days. And as Uwe once said so nicely, she then “dragged Andreas along at some point”. Andreas has made such trips with Uwe many times before, while it will be the first time for Simone as well.

In the course of the evening, food was ordered for Uwe and me, since the kitchen existed only in its basics. Later Lemme, a common friend of the three, came over, and so we let the evening end in a very funny and comfortable round.

29.10.2022 | Frankfurt – Doha | “The kitchen has to go, too!”

7:30 a.m., the alarm clock rings. My alarm clock. While everyone is still asleep, I get dressed and go for a leisurely 5k run in the park. Just because I’m going to be hiking a lot for the next three weeks doesn’t mean I’m going to give up my daily run. As well, like every day by now, I stretched and relaxed afterwards with yoga and meditation.

In the meantime, the others got up and were ready to go eat at Lemme. Breakfast was only available there because Simone and Andreas rip out the kitchen just in time for the vacation. Here it went on, just as chaotic funny as the evening before, until we satiated with super tasty scrambled eggs and rolls and made our way back.

While the others also tore out the rest of the kitchen, I gathered all the things again and relaxed a bit. I admit being more nervous than was good for me.

We took a leisurely walk in beautiful autumn weather to move our legs a bit before we started sitting on the plane.

At 4 p.m. Lemme took us to the airport, where the usual procedure of check-in and security control began. And just like that, two hours gone again. Arrived at the gate, Hannes was already waiting for us, the fifth in our group. After a quick drink, we boarded the plane that would take us to Doha. We spent the four-hour flight with movies and food, sleeping was out of the question.

30.10.2022 | Doha – Kathmandu | “Airport? Running as well!”

Landing in Doha, Qatar, at 3:10 a.m. sharp. The first time after almost exactly 20 years that I left Europe. The flight went smoothly so far, only sleep was unfortunately missing. Tired but motivated, I set out to run my first 3.5 km for the RSD 700. Yes, at the airport, up and down, early in the morning at 4:13 am. Some call it craziness, I call it passion.

Since we still had four hours, we went searching for food, because I was hungry again, as always after three to four hours. The prices at the airport are more than overpriced, but what can you do. Getting angry is definitely the worse option. After that, it was again about finding Hannes. Unspectacular and still without real sleep, we continued our flight to Kathmandu.

We landed at 4:45 pm, but it took until 7 pm due to visa problems and many traffic jams, when we finally reached the hotel. On the way there, Nima, our guide for this tour, told us that we had to leave already at 1am to reach the next airport. We all laughed heartily. It was not a joke. We couldn’t fly from Kathmandu, so we had to take a four to five hour bus ride first.

When we arrived, we immediately went to dinner together because we also needed time to repack our bags and prepare for the first day of hiking.

Also planned was a 3.5 km run in Kathmandu to get the 7 km full for RSD 700. Of course, I didn’t miss that either and set off again alone in the dark. The traffic in the side streets without sidewalks was very exhausting, but if everyone pays attention, it works out.

Shortly before midnight, I fell into my bed to …

31.10.2022 | Kathmandu – Phakding | “Three days awake and still tired!”

… to be back on the mat at 0:20, after only an hour and a half of sleep. Hoping to get a few more hours of sleep on the bus, we got on the bus with another group that took us to Manthali. The bus had plenty of room, so we could all spread out and lie down. Sleep on the bus after leaving Kathmandu was like the pavement of the road: not an option. Shaken up and no less tired, we arrived at Ramechhap airport just before 6am to drop off our luggage and get our boarding passes. From our point of view, everything was absolutely chaotic, but Nima had everything under control and so everything worked out.

Absolutely unpunctual, we were then called that our propeller plane is ready to fly us to Lukla. Lukla, the most dangerous airport in the world. And on Halloween, how suitable.

Since the planes here have limited space, we followed another guide who was on the plane with us and led us to the meeting point in Lukla to wait for Nima, who couldn’t join us until the next plane. So in Lukla we stretched our legs first and enjoyed sunshine and tea. Before we left, our porters arrived, grabbed our luggage and were on their way. After Babu, our assistant guide, also joined us, we were off.

For the first time in really challenging terrain with my newest hiking boots. It felt very strange to be wearing big and sturdy shoes again after about two years of only hiking in running shoes. Comfortable is different, but I’m already satisfied to have found some that don’t hinder me with my injury from over two years ago.

The trails were mostly paved with stones where there were stairs to climb. It tended to be downhill, but like any trail, this one went up and down. We moved from 2800 to 2500 m.a.s.l.

Phakding is completely on a slope, which worried me a little since I haven’t run yet today. But what else could I do? So I put on my running shoes and ran where I could. One mile just about done, then another 400 m uphill. What did I learn? Suspension bridges are not suitable for running.

As we’ve already established here, aside from the fact that the food here tastes really good: People like to eat here, a lot and with spoons; I’m home.

01.11.2022 | Phakding – Namche Bazar | “Up up up up up the stairs we go!”

The first night, in my sleeping bag bought especially for this trip, went great. As tired as I was, I would have probably slept anywhere, but so it was also comfortably warm. I’m curious whether that remains so at lower temperatures.

Since I knew we would end up in a hilly place again today, I got up as early as 6am to run my 2k in the morning freshness and already familiar terrain. Fortunately, there was a piece of path of 50 m that was “flat”. There I ran a km, went downhill to run there, two three times back and forth before it run / walk again uphill.

Quickly washed, and the last things packed, I went to breakfast. I must remember to order more here, because the breakfast turns out in proportions rather small.

More or less satiated, we went off. To get from 2500 to 3443 m.a.s.l., it was called today much mountain high. To make sure that it would be fun, the 1000 hm that had to be mastered were not equally distributed, but mainly on the second part.

Step by step we went up the mountain, every hour a drinking break. While I packed everything again at the second drinking break, a cow came by and licked first Sandy, then me. I guess we now belong to a Nepalese cattle clan. (Big sorry to the Šášov-Kozy, you have lost me now).

Early at 11 a.m. we had lunch at the last supply station, before it really started.

700 hm on 5 km. Those 5 km felt like they took forever, and it also took us just about three hours. I wasn’t sure if it was my back, dehydration, or the altitude (or all of it) that was the problem, but also crawling up there with a headache was additionally aggravating. The biggest motivation was knowing that a rest day would follow.

“Short steps and steady slow pace!”, was the motto, and so we crept up this mountain. Arrived in Namche Bazar, we also learned immediately that our accommodation, how could it be any different, is right at the top of the mountain. So here again countless steps up to arrive completely exhausted at the top.

Tears came into the eyes. If I’m already at the limit here, how am I supposed to make it any further? Taking a quick breath, we checked into the rooms, mainly to get into the shower before the other large group got the same idea.

While we were lining up for the shower, we gave Nima the order for dinner. Never experienced anything like that before either, but to experience something new, that’s why we’re here after all.

To do my back some good, I lay down for a round of yin yoga and meditation. After falling asleep here a few times, I laid down for a while as well. About an hour before dinner, I joined the others in the lounge to continue writing and drinking tea. Tea, something we drink by the gallon here and will be appreciated, especially in lower temperatures.

Well satiated, we let the evening fade until one by one we all went to bed.

02.11.2022 | Namche Bazar – Khumjung – Khunde – Namche Bazar | “Rest day? Ha ha ha!”

Hardly woken up, I have drunk, still in the sleeping bag, first a cup of warm tea from my wooden cup. The thermos was a gift from Uwe for my last birthday. He did not know that it would keep warm, and was actually intended to fill with warm water in the evening and put in the sleeping bag to preheat. What can I say, the pot gets zero heat on the outside but keeps the tea warm for about 18 hours. The wooden cup is from Amazon.

Nicely warmed from the inside, I immediately threw on my clothes. I can’t tell you how cold it was, but you could see the breath.

Since I also slept eight hours this night, but not really well, despite the warm extra blankets, I went at 7:30 still sleepy for breakfast. Even with double order, it was still very scarce, but enjoyed the warm rice pudding very much.

Since today was a day of rest, we met again around 9 o’clock to make a pilgrimage to the beautiful view. The climb had nothing to do with rest day, but was good for acclimatization and was definitely worth it. 

Lhotse proudly showed itself in all its beauty on the horizon. I can hardly believe that I really see it, here, with my own eyes. So much love for this mountain!

From there, we continued to Khumjung, where we not only got lunch, but also a mala for me. After ordering lunch, I first did my 2 km run. It was one of the hardest runs so far, here at over 3700 m.a.s.l., with slightly strained calves. But giving up is not an option. 20 minutes for 2 km is anything but record-breaking, but fortunately that doesn’t matter. I was back in time for dinner. Here you can somehow order everything, and it tastes good. So far I keep myself very scarce, regarding the meat, nevertheless, or exactly therefore it tastes superb.

Then we continued to Khunde and from there, again all downhill, back to the same accommodation.

The headache from the previous day was back and on the last piece up the stairs, awful, strong throbbing in the head. To counteract it, I went straight into the shower, a pain pill as an exception and yoga with meditation to come down. Even sitting while meditating, I dozed off again and again. I would dare to say I could be tired. After this procedure, the headache was also gone.

To prevent falling asleep completely, I joined Uwe in the lounge, which is also the only space that is heated. To do us some good, we had a pot of hot chocolate. In such exceptional situations, one is allowed to sin sometimes. One by one, Hannes and Andreas joined us, on time for dinner, Simone as well. On recommendation of Nima there was today also for almost all of us a garlic soup as a starter. It is supposed to help against headaches. Let’s hope it helps as well as it is delicious.

With tea and chatter, the evening ends before we disappear again to pack and sleep in our rooms.

03.11.2022 | Namche Bazar – Thame | “In calmness lies strength!”

At the usual time, so at 7 o’clock, the alarm clock went off. Quickly packed all things together and prepared. After breakfast at 7:30 am, we started relaxed. Relaxed, or rather the altitude adapted, comfortable speed. This has settled at 1 km / h. Seems slow at first (ok, it is), but at this altitude everything is a little different. After already two hours, we sat down for lunch. We thought we weren’t hungry yet (except for me, who is always hungry), but thanks to the Nepalese coziness, it took so long to get hungry. The view at lunch was just breathtaking, as was the whole area here.

Already shortly before noon and afterwards as well, I had a headache again as soon as I made an effort. The advantage today, however, that it subsided when I came to rest. For those who wanted, could still visit a monastery after our arrival in Thame. Everyone made a pilgrimage up the path while I tried to run my mile. I abandoned the first attempt after barely 100 meters. A bit desperate, I walked a few steps and tried again. This time almost all downhill to the bridge to run the last 200 m on the barely 10 m. I really hope that it will get easier again in the next two or three days, although my legs are more of a problem than my breathing when I run.

Back later, since I had to get back up the hill, the others were also back, ready to shower. ” Shower”. Today there was only cold water, with which only Andreas and Hannes (with cap on) dared to shower, while Simone, Uwe and I just washed the most important things. To do something good for myself, I lay down for yoga & meditation, wrapped in two thick wool blankets, because it was getting very fresh up here. In the huts here only the lounges are heated, if at all, the rest has outside temperature. Relaxed and nodded off five times, I moved into the warm, writing diary and planning the next day.

Then it was already time for supper. So much as here I have probably never eaten. Hannes, after we had ordered breakfast, lay down pretty soon, while the rest of us were still sitting around a bit tired in the warmth.

Back in the room, I appreciate very much that I felt quite well in the meantime. Only two days ago, I had tears in Namche Bazar, because I did not know how I should create the rest of the tour after the torture. Now, just like that, I’m just annoyed by the constant bag packing and unpacking, but that’s just part of it. Since we walk according to Nima quite a good pace, I am very reassured. Here applies probably also “In calmness lies strength”.

04.11.2022 | Thame – Lungdhen | “Today I will not run!”

Already shortly before breakfast, Simone came to us with tears in her eyes to tell that she and Andreas leave us today and go back to Namche Bazar. A short moment I thought about joining, but felt so far good, except tired, and wanted to tackle it.

After breakfast, still together, Simone and Andreas left us with their porter. For them, another tour with a little more rest day was planned, and we should meet them again in Chukhung. So far, plan B.

Shortly after them, we left as well. Slowly and steady, we went uphill again. The first three hours on the for Nepalese flat terrain, it went very well. Until this first bridge. The headache started again and on this bridge it happened. I heard my heart break at the thought “Today you will not run!”. After 700 days, I had to bury my streak.

How am I going to make it over the pass the day after tomorrow? Not at all! The last part today just went somehow like that. Hannes and Uwe took off my backpack on the last stretch; together with Nima and Babu they walked behind me as if they were just waiting to push me. With a throbbing headache and breathing difficulties since the 4000 m limit, it just didn’t feel good anymore.

Arrived, I first laid down for yoga and meditation, then also slept a bit. The headaches came back. If they come from the altitude or from the back, probably both, not known.

After everyone had gathered in the lounge, it was time to work on plan C. Result: Hannes will go with Babu and the porter, who is still in bed with a fever, already tomorrow over the pass; Uwe and I will go together with Nima back to Namche Bazar. There we will see, together with Simone and Andreas, how to continue. Hannes is almost freaking out because he is now going on alone, but we are very confident that everything will go well. He wants to give his camera to Babu, because he somehow just can’t manage to take pictures during this vacation.

After I had to cry several times today, because it just does not go as it should, I still decided, no matter how it continues, to make the best of the days here and enjoy the time.

05.11.2022 | Lungdhen – Namche Bazar | “We go on, even if it’s backward and downhill, but we go on!”

What a night! After I had already fallen asleep shortly before nine, I woke up just three hours later and the nightmare began. Every time I nodded off, I had this feeling that I would stop breathing; I got scared, woke up and took a deep breath. It went on like that for two hours, on the verge of panicking that I would suffocate. Half sitting in the corner, totally uncomfortable, I somehow managed to breathe and fall asleep again. For an hour. Turned around a bit, lay differently, and fell asleep again. For one hour. Wanted to lie down a little differently, breathing worked, but only very occasionally. After I had endeavoured with the cold (it must have been about -10⁰ outside) after the second walk to the bathroom, I fell asleep with the legs hanging over the edge of the bed again somehow, this time for two or three hours. Already at 6 o’clock I woke up again and decided that it was not worth anymore to go back to sleep. Therefore, I just stayed snuggled up in my warm sleeping bag and blanket for a bit. At 7 o’clock sharp, I should wake up Uwe; however, he was faster today.

Now the daily procedure started again: getting dressed, packing my bag, going for breakfast. When I dragged my bag in the hall, I saw that Hannes’ was still there, although by now he wanted to be on his way for an hour. But he wasn’t. Hannes’ night was just as bad as mine was which made him want to come down with us as well. Then just before breakfast, he decided to take a rest day in Lungdhen and go over the pass tomorrow as planned. He felt only tired, but otherwise top fit, that seemed to him a good plan.

Strengthened by breakfast, Uwe and I headed with Nima towards Namche Bazar. 18 km and about 1300 m downhill, 400 m uphill. If that goes well?

Since it was mostly downhill, we progressed very quickly and had already reached Thame after three hours, where we had spent the night the day before, so in half the time. Since we already had nothing to do here, we continued on another path past the village. As we did two days before, we sat down for lunch beside the monastery in Thamo by the breathtaking view. As we learned the last few days, lunch here is very relaxed, it takes at least an hour. However, in the end, we are on vacation and have time.

From there it was still just under 5 km to Namche Bazar, but also with two thirds of the uphill meters. These went thanks to the intake of ibuprofen quite well, without headaches, but unfortunately just like this.

In Namche Bazar we saw Andreas already standing on the hotel terrace and waving to us. Only briefly, the final opponent (last staircase) up. What I was looking forward to, after two days of cold on the warm shower. While I was still stretching and meditating in yoga, the others were already sitting together with tea. I sat down with them, and we exchanged the current status and thought about how to continue. At my request, there will be a rest day tomorrow. First of all we calmed down a bit, and then we would see how it goes on. That it would disintegrate me here like this, I would not have thought, unfortunately I cannot change it.

So we let this day end after dinner with four of us. At the insistence of the others, I learned almost half asleep in the hour before bedtime how to play Doppelkopf.

06.11.2022 | Namche Bazar | “First real day of rest!”

Rest day. Finally. After two days now, the sore throat came in the last night after all, as expected. Breathing at night went a little better, but good is different. Still this feeling, the body forgets to breathe.

Since today is a day of rest, there was breakfast at 8 o’clock, we could sleep in. Sounded in theory better than it worked out. Through these thin wooden walls, you can hear everything. Believe me, really everything.

While Uwe, Andreas and Simone took a little walk to a viewpoint, I went back to bed. With yoga and breathing exercises, mainly the well-known Ocean Breath, that went quite well. However, as soon as I left the breathing to the body again, the familiar problem also returned. Nevertheless, I was able to close my eyes again and sleep for an hour.

Since it was now already shortly before noon, I dressed and wanted to go to get some sun, when I saw the others already coming down from the mountain.

After a short break and some vitamin D refueling, it was already time for lunch again. After a week, I can say that I have never had a bad meal here. So that I have not learned yesterday in vain to play Doppelkopf, the afternoon is used as a game session. This we have pulled through, except during dinner, until we went to bed at 9 o’clock.

Slowly, the normal breathing is also back, but really only very slowly.

07.11.2022 | Namche Bazar | “Taking it slow!”

Another slightly better night, very slowly it is getting better, but really only slowly. The heart and respiratory rate seems to normalize more and more but steadily during sleep, but the respiratory failures at night still remain. Like yesterday, it works very well with concentrated breathing, just not when sleeping, when the body has to regulate itself, it is still hard. So I was awake for two hours again this night. Overall, however, everything feels better.

At breakfast, Nima came with a new plan. With Andreas and Uwe he will go up to Gokyo in two stages, meet Hannes there and cross another pass. Slowly I begin to understand why Nima said that normally not all three passes are done …

After breakfast, bags were packed again and the guys headed out. I packed up my stuff too and moved down to Simone’s room. One of the largest and few rooms in the Himalayas with its own toilet and sink; pure luxury.

In order not only to sit around in the room on a just slightly cloudy day (which was almost unusual after a week of sunshine), we first moved from the accommodation along the main staircase all the way down. And yes, exactly, the main street here is a staircase. Once at the bottom, we sat down at the Stupa Cafe for coffee, hot chocolate and cake. Still at the accommodation we bumped into Adi, who was also traveling here, and recommended the hot chocolate as he obviously saw by looking at me how I was feeling. It should help me to get back on my feet. So I wanted to follow this advice as well. In addition, there was carrot cake, which I actually only know traditionally from Switzerland, so I had to try. Since I’m not running at the moment anyway, I can also spar the sugar diet, so really treat myself with something before the training begins again. It tastes different here, of course, but just as good.

Then it was time to go the 100 m on not even one kilometer back up. Very slowly. Step by step we went up, branching off into the side streets, just to be able to walk a little flat and look at the things they offer. After I moved yesterday not at all, it felt good to be out again today, but not feel ready to take on anything.

Barely 15 minutes later, we found ourselves in the next coffee shop, drinking tea. For a change, there was this time and only this time a jasmine tea. Then we went on again. On the way, other tourists asked us about an accommodation, but I think the fact with at the top of the mountain for ours  deterred them.

Shortly before the last piece we asked at the hairdresser, what it would cost to get our hair cut, washed, dried. We have time to do us some good the next few days and only here there was a hairdryer.

Back I have made myself comfortable first, then sorted my stuff and looked, what is still there in clean laundry. If one is eight days “stranded” here, one can also make it comfortable.

In the meantime, it was already noon again, and the question of food arose. We checked the dining room and learned that one should please pre-order lunch, because otherwise no one is here. Nevertheless, there was a delicious pizza for us, and we will keep it in mind. While we were eating, the troupe of four announced by Ang Phura, the hostess, also arrived.

While yesterday, I was still joking about the rain clouds in the valley behind, because of “the Armageddon is slowly coming up the valley”, it has now become very foggy outside.

At 3 o’clock, my back called for his daily yoga session, the head for meditation.

After that we wanted to read something about Namche Bazar, the gateway to the Himalayas and the capital of the Sherpa. While reading, Henry, the first of said group, entered the room and joined us. Gradually, the others, Wolfgang, Fabian and Jana, joined us as well. So we sat together as one big group and also enjoyed our dinner together. This was followed by a video call to exchange briefly with our guys on the mountain, Andreas and Uwe. In the meantime, they also heard something from Hannes, who is in Gokyo waiting for them. All are doing well!

08.11.2022 | Namche Bazar | “Tired from sleeping!”

It is getting better slowly. The nights still have long periods of wakefulness, the throat no fun, breathing sometimes (but already much less frequently) still stops. This is not really relaxing. So I went to breakfast at 8 o’clock sharp, still tired from sleeping. A little later than usual, as we have time.

Until nearly 10 o’clock, we dawdled the time a little bit, before we started. I didn’t feel quite fit yet, but I dared to move a little further. Therefore, we went first very slowly up the mountain, to then comfortably follow the highway to Mt. Everest and enjoy the view of Lhotse again.

5 km and two and a half hours later, we found ourselves at the top of Namche Bazar and thought about what to do next. Lunch at the bottom and then slowly stroll back up sounded like a good and doable plan.

For lunch, we had “Swiss Rosti”, I had to see if it tastes just as good here. It does, a little different, but also great and with what felt like 10 kg of garlic in it. The whole thing was rounded off with a hot chocolate before we made our way leisurely up again.

Actually, we wanted to drink a tea in the already known bakery on the way and maybe nibble something sweet, but could not find it today somehow. Instead, we found a German bakery hidden up some stairs in a side street, where we treated ourselves to a tea and a Chocolate Danish to take home for me. Had I known how delicious this thing is, I would have taken more than one.

Back at the accommodation, first I chatted with some new arrivals before I moved quickly in the shower before the large group; after three days it was time to take a shower again. Refreshed and clean, I lay down for my daily yoga and meditation.

Relaxed and balanced, I took care of ordering dinner, and we rejoined yesterday’s group in the lounge. With a good distance to the group that arrived today, where everyone also seems to be sick. We call it the hiking virus, it must be that.

Hungry, we are already counting the minutes until it is finally time for supper, and for once not only I was counting.

Here it is usual that the guide of a group takes care of the order and the service in the accommodations. Since we don’t have one at the moment, we do the ordering ourselves and someone from the kitchen brings us the food. Since being together with this group, their guide Dawa, has taken over the service for us right away, quite natural this seems to be for him.

After everyone was full (yes, including me) we talked a bit, more nice conversations, before we went back to bed at nine. Maybe it works out today with sleep?

09.11.2022 | Namche Bazar | “New haircut is also available in Nepal!”

Nine hours of sleep, not the best, but still. Heart rate and breathing rate still very high, two phases awake. In the meantime, these phases awake have got a routine to be able to fall asleep again fast. Fast means here in less than an hour. Candy, toilet, drink, blow nose, candy no. 2. This way it seems to work quite well. Slept until the alarm rang at 7:30 am, at 8 am it was time for breakfast again and also time to say goodbye to Henry, Wolfgang, Fabian and Jana, in good hope not to see them again in the next four days.

After breakfast and some time to dawdle (have enough of it) it was time, today was the big day: We go to the hairdresser in Nepal, for me the first time visiting a hairdresser in more than ten years.

To avoid getting sick (worked out great) and because it was also not necessary, I avoided the last one and a half weeks washing my hair in this cold. Now it was time and my undercut was already growing so much. Cutting, washing, drying: 2000 rupees, so 16€. Simone got the same.

Freshly dressed up, we went through Namche Bazar down to our regular café, the Stupa Cafe. With coffee, cake, tea and hot chocolate, we already looked at other possible trips. Montenegro sounded very tempting. But let’s see, I already have planned the next two years for me.

After about two hours, we moved on, to the bakery. Since I still had enough of my piece of brownie cake, I decided not to take the Chocolate Carrot Cake today and get me at the other bakery again a delicious Chocolate Danish, a chocolate croissant as well.

Slowly and with a shopping stop, we went back up the mountain to the accommodation.

Since it was still very warm, I decided today to use my light sleeping bag as a yoga mat and bend outside under the open sky. Dreamlike.

An hour later, the fogs pulled up, but again slowly, and we moved indoors to read / write. Thickly wrapped in our blankets, we tried to get through the time. The dense fog of the last few days made it a bit uncomfortable, but at least the mornings are still sunny and warm.

Repeatedly we hear people going in and out (you can really hear everything here) and are already curious who we will meet today at dinner. Theoretically, the group that started with us should also come back these days. However, we don’t know exactly when that will be. Anyway, it was not today.

Hungry and tired, we made our way to the lounge, where there was already a lot going on. There was no big group, but there were many individuals. With relish, we ate our Sherpa Stew, which should kill all germs in the head, but unfortunately it didn’t work that way.

To get the time until bed around, we played a very funny mobile game, before we also declared this day over.

10.11.2022 | Namche Bazar | “Stupa Cafe – We are known!”

Since I’ve been here in Nepal, I haven’t had a really good night’s sleep, and that wasn’t going to change this night either. I slept about eight hours, but in between I also lay awake for about three hours. What felt like a cold the last few days has now turned into a sinus infection. So there will be no lunch in Thamo today.

But first of all, I have to get up. Just before breakfast, I crawled out of bed and quickly got dressed. Once again there was Tibetan bread for me today, just delicious.

Saturated and as ready as we could be, we wanted to move around a bit. First up to the Heli Pad and then we look further. These almost 600 m up the mountain have already completely knocked me out. This condition, to be hardly able to move, pulls slowly down the mind as well. Especially at night and also in the morning, an inner restlessness intensifies. It is not easy to know, that just recently I ran an absolutely brilliant half-marathon, and now I am completely exhausted after only a few meters of walking.

Arrived at the Heli Pad, we sat down and rested a bit. At least Simone is feeling much better, although she is still plagued by a runny nose.

Since even today was not the day to pull something off, we decide to go back to Namche Bazar, down to the Stupa Cafe and make ourselves comfortable there as every day.

We are greeted with big smiles. Unfortunately, our regular place in the sun was occupied, but changed there as soon as it became free. Since we didn’t have anything to read with us, Simone chose two books for us that were on display there. For herself she chose “The Alchemist”, I got “Into Thin Air”. So we read, wrote and played for about three and a half hours over tea and coffee.

Because we were already there and knew that the food was also delicious, we had lunch here as well. I actually wanted a chicken burger, but since the chicken was out, there was just a buffalo burger. Again, a first time, but it tasted great. For Simone there was still a piece of chicken and for both of us, as it should be, fries.

When we were a little strengthened again and felt emotionally ready, we set off again to overcome the nearly 100 m altitude to the accommodation. Of course not without stopping at the bakery. Today was finally the day and I treated myself with a piece of Chocolate Carrot Cake. To enjoy it, however, I had to wait a bit until we arrived at the top. There were already two newcomers sitting in front of the door. A South African and an Australian, who met in London last century and have been traveling together ever since.

Since it was already again more than a day, I got myself also once again under the hot shower. Not that I really sweat with the little I move, but because it just feels good. Like every day, I lay down for yoga afterwards. Especially these days, I realize how important it is for me to keep this daily routine; the anchor in these not so easy times.

At five, we moved to the lounge, hoping the stove was already on; and it was. What a luck. It was still some time until supper, but we already got some tea.

A Ukrainian woman living in Canada joined us. She is currently still alone on the road and came up from Salleri (not like most flown to Lukla), but hopes to find here still company for the three passes. And so the time went by fast with some chatting.

While I usually ate Simone’s leftovers all those days, it was hard for me today to get my own food done. But I bravely endured.

Curious about how the next night would be, we laid down in bed. My guess is bad breathing with a sore throat. And a lot of time awake.

11.11.2022 | Namche Bazar | “I have lost my voice!”

I have lost my voice. Thanks to ibuprofen and GeloRevoice I slept relatively well, but my throat is now probably completely gone. Whispering is just about possible. Now the quiet day will probably be silent.

At breakfast, I got an antibiotic from the Ukrainian. But since I felt uncomfortable taking such strong medicine, Simone wanted to consult with her sister and daughter, both doctors, whether it makes sense to take antibiotics and how it should be taken. The answer, however, still had to wait a bit, since it was only 5 o’clock in the morning in Germany.

Together with Ang Phura Simone went to the market today, while I just wanted to stay in bed or on the window sill. This is big enough to snuggle in and immediately soak up the full beaming sun. And there I stayed and started typing the texts from my diary into my mobile phone. At some point, I was able to lay down completely on the bed in the sun, before moving back to the window sill the other way around. I lay there for more than four hours and just recharged my batteries.

Because I already suspected that Simone would be back around two, I started with yoga and meditation shortly before that. And indeed she came in on the last breaths.

Because I had time to look out of the window, I had time to watch the one eating a super delicious croissant from the Hermann bakery and immediately regretted telling Simone not to bring me anything. But instead she brought me colorful pills. Yellow ones, six of them. Antibiotics; over the counter and for 4€. Let’s hope they bring the hoped-for cure, after all, I have to go back down the mountain in two or three days. And I really want to do that on my own two feet.

Simone had to visit today, unfortunately also alone the Stupa Cafe, but reported that I was already missed there. Tomorrow, I hope, I’ll get down the stairs; and especially back up again!

Since the sun was slowly disappearing, and we still had to order food, we wobbled up after Simone was back from the shower, which I would also have liked, but was denied by Ang Phura.

Again we do everything to kill time, this time also writing postcards to our children. And so the hours pass. We talk to almost everyone, so that it is not quite so boring.

After six or seven days, we are now declared family here. We have arrived.

Why we still order food so late and then look at the clock when it is finally time is a mystery to me. Probably just so that we don’t have to wait quite so long until bedtime.

Shortly before dinner, we moved again, just to be closer to the oven. After dinner, I got the first antibiotic. I hope very much that they will make me fit again until departure in three days.

Today as well, the time is wasted with gambling, writing and reading, until it was finally time to go to bed at 9 o’clock.

12.11.2022 | Namche Bazar | “Goodbye, Lhotse!”

Seven days in Namche Bazar, another bad night. The antibiotics seem to help physically, but not at all for the inner restlessness. It is absolutely annoying not to be able to move as I would like. But none of that helps, life goes on. Starting with breakfast. Rice pudding, because Ang Phura didn’t want to give me anything fried until I was feeling better. She takes care of me.

After that, we wanted to check our bill to see if we still have enough money. After so many days, we lost the overview. We get one shower each for free.

After I have only lain yesterday again, I wanted to try today with a little more movement. So we ventured up the steps to the Everest Highway, up to the second stupa. Once again, seeing the graceful Lhotse surrounded by Mt. Everest and Ama Dablam.

On the way to the Stupa Cafe, we made a quick stop at the accommodation before heading back down the so familiar main staircase. Immediately upon arrival, they inquired about my well-being after I was not present yesterday. Comfortably settled at our regular place, I had a hot chocolate and a caramel macchiato for Simone. Reading and writing, we let the time pass, treated ourselves to “Swiss Rosti” for lunch.

And so we saw today from down in the village for a change, how the clouds and the fog rose and engulfed Namche Bazar to the afternoon.

On the way up, we stopped briefly at an exchange office. With so much free time, we had plenty of time to spend the money.

Once we reached the top, I already went ahead to the lounge, while Simone wanted to join me a little later. As I found out when she showed up, this turned out to be a bit difficult because I had slid the latch shut from the outside out of reflex. SORRY! Luckily, someone came by and was able to get her out of the room. The story had also spread quickly, Ang Phura already knew about it when she arrived in the lounge.

And then the evening went on as usual with reading, writing and gaming. Shortly before dinner, we were lucky enough to have another video chat with our guys. They are all well up and will return to Namche Bazar. Then it’s over with our chick party here.

For the first time we dared today to eat the yak steak, which was just today freshly procured. It’s ok, but nothing special, very similar to beef as we know it.

Besides us, today only the Ukrainian and a spontaneously arrived Croatian here. You can tell that the season here is slowly coming to an end. After supper there, we ate a few sunflower seeds on the house, before this day was already over again.

13.11.2022 | Namche Bazar | “Things are getting better!”

Finally, after two weeks, the first night my watch said I slept well, and it felt like it. It seems to have been only about five to six hours (about three hours were not recorded), but I must have been in a coma for those. This is the first day since my return to Namche Bazar that I felt like I could take a few more steps.

But before we think of going big again, we first have breakfast to strengthen ourselves. Tibetan bread with honey and garlic toast, what a mixture.

We started early, around 9 o’clock, because the boys are coming back today. Ang Phura should tell them, if they are there before us, they should come to the Stupa Cafe.

And then we started, step by step, up the steep piece to the Heli Pad. First over the slope, we took the already known and very pleasant path towards Thamo. On the way we talked to a very friendly man, who was already familiar to us, because he owns the restaurant where we wanted to eat.

Just like the first time, we found ourselves pretty much two hours later at the place below the monastery. An elderly lady took our order, and we made ourselves comfortable on the terrace with the great view and read a few more pages.

With relish, we ate our delicious food, drank tea (what else) and then slowly made our way back.

About half an hour before Namche Bazar we met the same man again, who had already received a report from his wife about us getting lunch in his restaurant. Communication in the Himalayas? Check.

Arriving at the Heli Pad, Simone was delighted to finally see a helicopter taking off. Already two, three times she sat here and waited, but of course none came, as it is.

Past the Heli Pad, we could already see that at our accommodation people were walking around, but from the distance we couldn’t tell if they were our boys. Before we found out, we went to the Stupa Cafe for the last time to have a good time. As a farewell, we took a picture with the guys who had provided us with the finest treats all these days.

Although the message had reached our boys, they had not dared to go to the lower end of the village. Too exhausting and cold, but also just as beautiful, were the days in the higher regions for them. The hot shower was simply more tempting. Simone and I also treated ourselves to the warm shower, which we got for free today after all these days (otherwise 500 rupees each; 4€).

In order not to stand outside in the cold, we sat down in the lounge, where we talked with Adi. Adi we have already met a week ago, is also one of those crazy ones who climbs around on all kinds of mountains and has just come back from Everest Base Camp. Simone pointed out to me that we had already met him a week ago, and I unfortunately had to confess that I would not have recognized him, although it was only a week, and we had already talked before. He was not surprised. On the contrary. He explained to me what HACE is, to have recognized it by my eye trembling, which I did not notice myself, and that this can lead to the fact that the perception can suffer from it, that one does not recognize faces later. Inwardly, I hope it really wasn’t all that bad. Something like that can be terrifying, but confirmed to me that it was the right, if emotionally hard and unwanted, decision to go back. As much as I wanted to, forcing it wouldn’t have helped. Despite everything, though, I was sure today I would be back. A little wiser and with the goal to see the Imja Tcho. In four or five years, or already in 2025? We will see.

When all the guys were freshly showered and sitting at the table, we started telling stories and looking at pictures. I don’t really envy the -15 °C, but the pictures of the passes are really impressive.

Afterwards, we had the first dinner together after nine days. Also, today we had to order early breakfast for the next day. It’s good that Nima takes care of that, and we don’t have to write our fingers sore anymore.

To end the evening with loud discussions, we got involved in a few rounds of Uno. As it happens, we will never agree on the rules.

14.11.2022 | Namche Bazar – Phakding | “Goodbye Namche!”

The last night in Namche Bazar. After nine days here, it is time to leave this beautiful place in the direction of Lukla. I have enjoyed the time and peace here very much, will miss it a bit, even if it had been nicer to be able to do something more.

For breakfast today, there was not only the delicious Tibetan bread and garlic toast again, but also the last antibiotic. I don’t sound and feel quite healthy yet, but it’s going the right way.

As always, after breakfast, we had to “briefly” settle the outstanding bill and then leave. “Briefly” was in this case a solid hour, as we had accumulated quite a bit in all the days we had been there. The three of them somehow calculated once with each other; one reads out, the other types in. Into the calculator. Here, books are actually still kept manually on paper. Normally, each room has a book. What is consumed is noted down and added up at the end. Digital cash register system? Not at all. Everything is paid in cash.

Shortly after 9 o’clock, we started. We all want to meet at the lower end, at the entrance gate to Namche Bazar, because Andreas and Simone were already off in search of matches, while Hannes and I turned into the side street to change money.

Again a last wistful look back before we went down the steep mountain again. Somehow I can’t remember this last bit of uphill, or rather I really only concentrated on the meter of road in front of me, but didn’t notice the surroundings. Beautiful here.

Since the gate to Namche Bazar we also met trail runners again and again. It seems to be the Everest Trail Race. I am just happy to go this time in the other direction.

On light foot and partly already light jogging, I had a lot of fun today to go this way, accompanied by some music I haven’t listened to for days.

And in the process, I keep asking myself one question: How will I cope after all these days of rest, with all the noise and stress in Kathmandu and back home? I know from experience that the first few days will certainly not be easy, but unfortunately I don’t have a choice.

Step by step, stair by stair, it went the approximately 1000 m, which we have climbed in hours of hard labor, quite easily back down.

After postponing lunch already three times by request, we finally had something to eat in Toctoc, half an hour before our destination in Phakding.

Arrived in Phakding, we moved in the rooms in the accommodation already known to us from the climb, finally out of the sweaty clothes.

I was just about to lie down for yoga, there was someone knocking on my door. Extra blankets are distributed, at which of course I did not say no.

Stretched out and relaxed, I sat down on the bed to continue writing, while the others were already sitting outside. Just a few minutes for myself, also needed sometimes.

I went to the lounge and ordered dinner, as soon as I moved out of my room. Food ordered, I sat down with Uwe to write down yesterday’s day. Until Simone and Andreas were also there, and it was time to play Doppelkopf. Hannes sat down and learned the game while watching. Let’s see if he can be persuaded to play as well.

15.11.2022 | Phakding – Lukla | “Once again, it’s going uphill.”

Eight hours just sleeping. Down at 2500 m.a.s.l. I now had my first night with really good sleep. And that, although the warm blanket said goodbye and fell next to the bed. To get out of the sleeping bag today was only a little bit harder, because the night was a little bit colder than what I was used to from Namche Bazar.

And so today began like any other day: get dressed, pack, have breakfast and off we go; the last stage from Phakding to Lukla. The route is already known, but just in the other direction. Because on this way we were basically always going down, we imagined the way back quite strenuous, but went quite well. Also, today again only slowly, because I felt not quite at the top, but steadily always forward.

Just three hours later, we reached the accommodation in Lukla, right next to the airport. Sitting down in the sun, we ordered drinks and lunch. The guys quite bravely dared to try Can, a beer brewed from millet. The reactions were not so convincing.

As it took a while to get lunch ready, we checked in to our rooms, changed clothes, and did what you do after arriving. Surprisingly, the rooms here each have their own bathroom, including shower, but only ice-cold. The hot shower is outside and must be paid extra, as everywhere. In beautiful sunshine, we enjoyed our meals.

Before we went to a tour through the shopping area of Lukla, one or the other took a warm shower, or just washed the essentials under the cold one. Unfortunately, the sun is already hidden again behind the clouds as we went off and thus also immediately fresh, but just still a good opportunity to indulge in coffee and cake somewhere.

Hardly back in the lodge, we changed into something warmer, in order to make ourselves comfortable in the next coffee shop. One of the few warm rooms here. Hardly our drinks consumed, we saw that the group, with which we have already arrived, was also here again. Actually, we should not have met them again, but we arrived here a day too early.

From the coffee shop we changed into the lounge, ordered dinner and drank tea. Since today is the last day our porters will be with us, they will have supper together with us. A joint evening meal as a farewell.

Until then, we spent the time with playing Doppelkopf in the coffee shop. Here, because it is the only room after the lounge that is heated, and we will eat supper here as well. The lounge is occupied by the other group.

After I briefly went to my room after supper, I found myself locked up inside our compartment. No human being far and wide. Climbing out of the window? Not an option in the dark. Simone assumed that no one was in the rooms and locked the door. But now I know how long it takes before I’m missed. It is about thirty minutes.

With a lot of talking, also some beer and rum were drunk (of course not by me, as good as I am, I held on to the tea) and so we let the evening end together. Before we went to bed, the porters are thanked for their terrific performance and said goodbye.

16.11.2022 | Lukla | “Planes, Shaves and Sugar. A lot of sugar.”

Rest day in Lukla. Since we came back a day earlier, we still have time to look at one or the other thing here. But first breakfast. I have to learn how to make this Tibetan Bread. It’s definitely not the healthiest, but just delicious.

After that, our first and most important destination was the space under the airstrip. Here you can actually stand at the end and see the passing planes and helicopters flying overhead at close range. So close, the only way to get closer is to sit inside.

From there we stroll leisurely back up to the shopping mall and the moment the boys had been waiting for since day one finally arrived: they go to the barber. After almost three weeks of wild growth, it was now time for a proper shave. About an hour later, everyone was through, no one recognizable and everyone poorer by 400 rupees (3€).

Slowly we strolled back to the lodge, it was time to order lunch. Again a good hour time, us at the Doppelkopf to snap at each other.

After lunch, it was time to say goodbye to Babu. He had met some friends and is leaving with them before he goes on the next tour to Mera Peak.

Again we strolled back to the shopping mile, because Simone and Andreas still wanted to go to the one store. Lukla Outdoors. Everyone found something, for me there were two vests, cuddly soft, as I had been looking for.

A little further, at a bakery, a shock. Mainly a sugar shock. Because I wanted to treat myself to the hot chocolate, I had a cheese cream dessert. It was delicious, but just too much. But nothing is wasted. And so I had to roll slowly back to the lodge. To sit down in the coffee shop and drink tea and play Doppelkopf for a change.

In the meantime Nima came to us to enlighten us about the following day: get up at 5:45 a.m., 6:15 a.m. breakfast, 7:15 a.m. departure, maybe. Depending on the weather. We remember, flying is by sight, otherwise not. We will see. At the same time, we found out that the lady who runs the coffee shop also organizes the flights. So we are sitting in the tower, so to speak. One is much more diverse and flexible here than we are. We have to tell Hannes this news later, he is already sleeping again.

So today we had to pack our bags early again and get everything ready. Meanwhile, I found a roommate in the bathroom. About 5 cm tall, eight legs and is now called Toni. He doesn’t hurt me and I don’t hurt him. Hopefully.

For dinner, we all meet again in the lounge, which was also slowly getting warm, enjoy our dinner and let this evening, although earlier than usual, end with Doppelkopf as well.

17.11.2022 | Lukla – Kathmandu | “Patience is a virtue!”

5:45 a.m., the alarm clock rings. I have slept eight hours wonderfully, but that’s still too early. So in the freshness rolled out of bed, the daily walk through the bathroom and going directly to breakfast. The bags are deposited in front of the coffee shop, we sit down to eat inside.

After the breakfast it starts immediately. With waiting. We order tea and coffee, so it can take a while. Shortly before 10 o’clock, we finally hear how the first plane arrives in Lukla. The hope rises to get back to Kathmandu today, but it is still not sure.

In the meantime it is 11 o’clock, we have moved from the warm coffee shop to the cold departure hall. The next Tara Air plane is ours. So again, just about an hour. We wait. And eat, out of boredom.

With all slowly getting cold feet. I got the thick socks from my bag again. A little less weight to be paid later. Included in the flight are only 15 kg, everything above that costs extra.

12:00, nothing new in Lukla.

12:30, we are through security and now waiting in the next room.

13:30, after I have dozed off for another 30 minutes, the flight actually took off. In the airplane another last view of the river Dudh Koshi, in its most beautiful blue, this dreamlike mountain range; a teardrop for the farewell.

Barely 20 minutes later, we landed in Manthali, at what felt like 30 °C more. So first we took off our jacket, sweater, some pants and the thick socks as fast as possible. Nima called our driver, who came right away and now brings us back to Kathmandu.

And here we are again, back in civilization, with all the many people, loud vehicles, honking horns. How I have not missed all this at all. This peace and coziness in the Himalayas, much, much nicer. Isolated from the outside world, just being away. It won’t always be the Himalayas, but this “being away” is something I will definitely have to do more often.

After about 30 minutes, we made a short stop, buying water and fruit. Lunch we cancelled, rather we would like to be in Kathmandu sooner. The driver wanted to eat something, but did not until another stop, at Kuseswor Dumja. Since we were supposed to fly at 7:15 am, or land at 8 am in Manthali, the driver was already on the road since about 3 am.

I used the break to walk a few steps and take pictures of the Sun Kosi, the local river. The drive through this valley may be a bit bumpy, but now in the daytime, beautiful as well. Along the river, many fields are laid. Makes sense to grow crops by the water. All manual work. If you are lucky, a cow pulls the plow. From what I see here, I would almost dare to say that the field work here is mainly done by the women.

Looking at the map every half hour to see how far we’ve come is somehow not motivating at all. You feel like you’re not getting anywhere, which isn’t exactly surprising given the road conditions. You notice, however, to come closer to Kathmandu, because the traffic is denser, the horn concert is louder and the overtaking maneuvers already quite hard on the nervous limit.

At 7 pm we made it, we arrived in Kathmandu. And there was already too much noise. It will be interesting to see, how it will be tomorrow, a whole day here.

Afterwards, we met for dinner. Simone had gotten her soup up to her room and stayed in bed. Seems like she is now fighting the infection I had to kill with antibiotics a few days ago. I brought her all my candy and cough suppressants and really hope she feels better soon. After supper, everyone went to their rooms.

Being back here means to have access to internet again. As much as I enjoyed the time without, I’m also glad to be able to chat with my best friend again.

18.11.2022 | Kathmandu | “I’ll be a monkey’s uncle!”

How nice it is, not to freeze everything off while getting out of bed at night. Small, but significant differences.

A little later, at half past eight, we had breakfast today. For most of us. Hannes was already through and out in the city. Some people just don’t appreciate a warm bed.

After everyone was satiated and Hannes was back, we set off together. A whole day in Kathmandu. First up and down the whole shopping street, looking what is available and what we want.

Since just looking was exhausting and Hannes still owed us a meal, we went to the Steak House around noon. Hawaii steak with banana and pineapple on it for me. Really delicious.

To experience some more culture, we headed to the Swayambhunath, the Monkey Temple.

Walking through this city really gets me down. After two and a half weeks of rest, it’s just too stressful and noisy here. I confess to being glad to be out of this city again.

Arrived at the monkey temple, it went first of all the 365 steps up. Like everywhere else, we had to pay an entrance fee before we could take a look at the temple itself. As it is with tourist hotspots, there are also many people and sellers, who of course tried to sell everything to everyone.

While walking around here once, you can also look at Kathmandu in every direction right away. Through the hazy smog, it is just possible to recognize a few mountains. The Himalayas could be seen theoretically, but practically not at all.

And all the steps back down again. While only a few monkeys were to be seen while going up, there were quite more now. Whole groups sit to the side of the stairs, in between: a few dogs.

Through the same traffic chaos, we tried to find our way back to the hotel. Simone lay down while the rest of us went shopping. I already don’t like shopping at home, here even less. But there are still a few things I want to get.

As soon as we were in the first store, Andreas and Hannes disappeared somewhere and were not seen again until dinner. So Uwe and I went off on our own, while we had more and more bags in our hands, and I was seriously worried how I was going to get it all into my bags.

Like the last three weeks, we met at 6:30 for our farewell dinner; our last meal with Nima. We had Dal Bhat and two whole chickens to go with it. I don’t know how Andreas and I managed it, but after the rest of us were already full and so were we, we ate another half chicken. As a reward, I got Simone’s dessert, since she was already in bed, and Andreas got my rum. Everything, but really everything, was gone.

We thanked Nima for the great company and the chaos he went through with us before he said goodbye.

I, too, slowly made my way to the room. With the still persisting inner restlessness I started to pack, the main thing I can do and had to realize, not everything fits in. Well, Uwe had offered me to put something in his bag, so it should work out.

All packed and a fresh shower later, I went to bed at 11 pm as well.

19. / 20. 11.2022 | Kathmandu – Doha – Frankfurt – Wilsdruff | “Goodbye, Nepal!”

Waking up way too early, I quickly rushed into the shower, again. You appreciate it much more after not have running water available all the time.

For breakfast, shortly after 8 o’clock, Hannes was of course long finished with it, but still kept us company. None of us really felt like going into town. So we set a time for lunch and went back to our rooms.

Since I had already packed, I took the time to update my diary. And of course, I didn’t miss my daily yoga and meditation session. Uwe knocked on the door to see if I had anything left, not fitting in my bag. Luckily for him, it was clean laundry, the bit that was left. 11:30 everyone was ready, and we looked for something to eat. We quickly found a cozy backyard pub as well. As we found out, they don’t serve alcohol in restaurants today. Why? Because tomorrow are elections. On Sunday for the election all stores are closed, no vehicles may be driven and only the way to the ballot box may be walked. Sounds strange to us at first, but as they say: other countries, other customs.

Today there was a cottage cheese steak for me. It was not exactly what I expected, especially too little, but still tasted very tasty.

Back at the hotel, we still had half an hour to pack the very last things. Since the hotel bill still had to be paid, I went down shortly before 2 o’clock, clarified everything, and got another crazy ride through Kathmandu to the airport. And there everything started again, as we already knew it from Frankfurt, with check-in and security check, only much faster. So, sitting around longer. And what better way to spend the rest of the money than on sweets? Exactly. By the way, Turkish chocolate doesn’t taste good at all, and I had to buy one more package of cookies.

Water is also in my drinking bottle, so I’m ready to go. I am, but the plane is not yet.

Finally, the boarding began. Zone 1, Uwe and I, can take the first ride to the airplane. Andreas and Simone are in zone 2, but will follow directly. If Hannes is also on the plane, I can only guess, I didn’t see him anymore.

The plane starts rolling in the dark, first slowly, fires up the engines and takes off. Quickly, the lights of Kathmandu become smaller. The big street intersections look just as crazy from up here as they are to drive through.

To pass the time faster, I turned on a movie. “Fireheart”, I can only recommend it, I laughed my ass off. Followed by “Moana” in French, just because I can and already know this movie by heart. Meanwhile, the food arrived. As exquisite as it can be on a plane. The television marathon continued with three episodes of “Call me Kat”. At the same time I continued writing down my diary, there is still a lot of work ahead of me.

We landed on time in Doha, where we once again have four hours to kill. The first thing we do is to look for a stuffed animal for Hannes’ son, followed by the search for a place in a relaxation room. Space was there, relaxation not so much. It’s clever to build the children’s playground right next to it.

End of the story: I didn’t sleep a minute, but found a park while walking through the airport. If I had seen it earlier, I would have laid down in the green.

It was time for us to leave, so we walked to the gate, and boarded the last of those six flights on this trip. Almost on time, it took off.

So the first four hours passed fairly quickly, while the rest lasted. At 6 o’clock, we landed in Frankfurt on time.

The weather here makes me wish to return right away. It may be a bit colder in the Himalayas, but there is more sunshine.

Through passport control, we stood around for quite a while at baggage claim. As soon as Hannes had his bag, he said goodbye to us to catch his train to Munich. Andreas, Simone, Uwe and I had Lemme picking us up again. He dropped us off with our luggage at Andreas and Simone’s house. From there we took a walk to Lemme’s, where we had a delicious breakfast again today.

After that, it was time to start the car ride home. The drive itself was very unspectacular, especially since I slept the first two hours.

Until shortly before I got home, I received a message from Simone: Positive rapid test. I guess that meant that the rest of us had to do some tests at home. Luckily, all other tests were negative.

This made me think. If Covid was one of the reasons why I felt so bad during those days, there is some hope for turning out better the next time.

Epilogue

I wanted to type down the diary, which is handwritten in the original (and German), exactly as I wrote it. Individual passages had to be reworked, however, since it was probably difficult for me to write proper sentences in my damaged condition. But otherwise everything is there, the one or other detail expanded, if it seemed relevant to me. The translations have been done mostly by an automatic translator, because honestly, I was too lazy to do it all by hand. I checked and corrected it as good as possible, but no guarantee for any quality.

On Wednesday after our return, my rapid test was positive as well, so I went directly to the PCR test, which confirmed the result, and off I went into quarantine. Not exactly the souvenir that you want to bring back from vacation and the rest afterwards, but fortunately not the only one.

After all, I have achieved two of four goals: I have seen the Lhotse, and I am still alive. I didn’t make the tour and I had to sacrifice my streak. This trip was not only due to AMS and infections physically at the limit, also emotionally it went crazy. And still, after all that, there is one sentence in my head: “Nepal, I’ll be back!” Whether it will be the same region again next time or somewhere else, I leave that open for now. Imja Tcho is already calling me loudly, but also other national parks have nice lakes. But what it will be, I will see, by the time for making new plans in two years, now first a few other places are calling, which want to be run and hiked. So many adventures calling for me, it remains exciting …

Uwe, Hannes, Andreas and Simone, Nima, Babu and to our three porters, thank you for this great, creative trip.